A relative once told me that bengal sarees are for the poor.... I was supposed to take on board the well wishing advice to stay away from purchasing bengal sarees as a gift for anyone in the family. This statement showed to me that the individual discounted a nuanced understanding of the process of Bengal sarees production and the increasing popularity of the sarees amongst a majority of women who found utility and style in these sarees.
Growing up in a Bengali household, I saw my mum wearing cotton sarees everyday and on special occasions. I thought that the umbrella term ‘bengal sarees’ meant nothing more than the fact that the common denominator was the material, cotton. Much later when I became interested in Indian history and Bengal weaves, I got to know the shades of differences in the mundane Bengal sarees which were made of cotton, muslin, linen, matka, gheecha, tussar and mulberry silks.
I learnt that the production of Bengali sarees till date is closely linked to the partition of India when a group of weavers migrated from Bangladesh and settled in the Phulia district to create a weaving community. Similarly tangail, a type of saree worn in Bengali households is also the name of a place in Bangladesh from where weavers came to settle in West Bengal, India. Hence the sarees of Bengal are not a mere piece of textile, it has a history that is shaped by the creation of the modern Indian state and has meanings that go beyond each cotton strand of the saree. A visual representation of the Magic of Bengal Handlooms is available on Google Art and Culture
Baluchori (baluchari), jamdani, taath, tangaial, gorod, korial, dhonekhali, begumpuri, muslin, dhakkai, batik are only a handful of name of the Bengal sarees. Not all of these sarees are in cotton exclusively, they can be a mix of silk & cotton or silk exclusively. Each saree type has a characteristic feature that distinguish it from one another. The signature of a baluchori saree is the use of figurines in the weave along with other traditional motifs. Bengal dhakkai pictured below are light as a feather, sheer in finish and are a must addition for any saree collector's wardrobe because one has to experience them to understand their versatility - you can wear them for a birthday, house-warming, 'no reason for wearing a saree' day or for a wedding.
The motifs of the Bengal sarees are based on everyday life of Bengal. Prachi Baniwala notes the names of some of the motifs used in taath sarees as bhomra (bumblebee), tabij (amulet), rajmahal (a royal palace), ardha chandra (half-moon), chandmala (garland of moons), ansh (fish scales), hathi (elephant), nilambari (blue sky), ratan chokh (gem-eyed), benki (spiral), tara (star), kalka (paisley) and phool (flowers).
The begumpuri saree has a simple plain body. The characteristic feature is a design made up of various kinds of lines of different colours, with varied width and textures. The picture on the right showcases a begumpuri palla and border comprising entirely of the lines of various colours to create a standout design feature.
The dhonekhali sarees are usually in monotone colours of red and white or white and black. They are exclusively found in cotton only. The design motifs vary - while some have a motif throughout the body of the saree; others have a wide bottom monotone border made up of floral motif and horizontal stripes.
The jamdani is a design motif that is predominant in Bengal sarees but is not confined to Bengal sarees only. The picture on the right displays the jamdani palla of a plain black saree. The jamdani motif is usually woven during the weaving process of the saree through particular combination of threads in the weft.
I anticipate to discuss more in the future blogs as I learn more about the sarees weaves, the production process and the meanings they assign to our lives.
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